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At Si Ge Home-Style Cooking in Guangzhou, two wok-fried roe crabs cost RMB 78. The surprise is what the crab-frying oil does to its beef rice vermicelli.

At Apei Beef Hotpot in Chenghai, Shantou, the order starts with your headcount rather than a menu. Here is a real five-person meal built around fresh beef, shacha sauce, and restraint.